Chittorgarh

On the advice of Lonely Planet, this morning I breakfast at the coffee and apple pie at Edelweiss Cafe. The pie is nice, coffee nothing special, both expensive. A chai and a chat with an Indian art student, on the way back, results in the sale of a "postcard" for 20 rupees.

At the hotel, Asfak Hossein (the owner) had decided I was to be leaving today, having booked someone else into my room. So I pack. Upstairs, I say goodbye to fellow guests off to Jodhpur, then rickshaw to the bus station. Soon I'm on the bus to Chittorgarh, which gradually fills up and becomes even less comfortable. A bearable journey at around 3 hours, over the plains of Rajasthan, allegedly filled with opium poppy plantations for government supply.

On arrival at Chittorgarh, I'm instantly ushered in to a rickshaw by it's driver, who drives me up to the top of the hill and drives me down again (the rest house at the top is not really to my liking, but would have been a lot better than the shit-hole I end up in!). Out on the town, I soon realize that the trouble with getting off the beaten track is that there's a reason it's not beaten. No internet in sight, and no restaurants. The main attraction of this town seems to be me, judging by the locals who constantly stare at me. Kids follow me around in their dozens. Really it's all quite unnerving. Feeling lost and alone, I scuttled bac to the hotel, but soon realize that a solution can not be found in that dump. Pulling myself together, and overcoming my desire to catch the next bus out of here, I decide to hunt for food at the bazar, make the most of it, and visit the spectacular fort tomorrow before moving on. A wise decision, the Chat (lentil dish) at the bazar is excellent, I have two plates of the stuff for only 10 rupees (about $0.15).

Feeling more at ease with food in my stomach, I enjoy strolling around the market, taking in the sights, sounds and smells. Listening to the call to prayer at the mosque, I stop to take a few photos of street-side flower sellers, who start off being very camera-shy, but soon started enjoying the attention.

After dark, I buy a 15 rupee towel and a bottle of water on the way back to this nasty place, then crawl into my sleeping bag.