Chittorgarh -> Bundi

I eventually arise from my slumber after suffering the persistent noise of horns during the early hours. The rickshaw driver is already eagerly awaiting me to take me on a tour of the fort, but I make him eagerly await a while longer, while I pack and wash, not daring to shower. Thankfully out of the "hotel", I'm rushed up to the top of the hill again, and into the fort complex. First stop is the impressive victory tower, nine stories high, celebrating the victory of Rana Kumbha over Mahmud Kilji in 1440. Afterwards: a beautiful Hindu temple, complete with the usual monkeys; Padmina's Palace, reflecting her beauty in the lake; the wonderful 11th century Sat Bis Deori Jain temple; and finally the ruins of Rana Kumbha's palace, where Padmina and the townswomen committed jauhar (mass suicide by fire) rather than surrender themselves to the King of Delhi, Ala-ud-din Khalji.

By now, it's past midday and time for me to move on. The rickshaw driver takes me down to the bus station, where I discover that the next bus to Bundi isn't til 6pm. Luckily, the rickshaw driver is still in sight, and helpfully takes me to the train station for no extra charge. I procure a passage on a slow local train, departing at 14:15, leave my rucksack in the luggage room, and venture out for bargain food at a roadside stall. Stuffed chillies, yummy! And a samosa to take away. While awaiting my train on the platform, an Indian student presents himself, and kindly imparts some Hindi classes. Others stand around looking at me, and browsing through my Footprint guidebook. Eventually the train arrives at 14:45.

We move slowly over the scenic plains, hills protruding in the distance. Stopping in every little village, the train takes almost 5 hours to cover the 150 km separating the two towns. Learning from experience, this time I stick to my initial choice of hostel, the R.N. Haveli, run by a family of women (mother & two daughters), and recommended by Footprint. The rickshaw drive into town after dusk is interesting, the streets still abuzz with people, bicyclyes, motorbikes, rickshaws, cows, etc. Here, the local speciality seems to be the crafting of large metal pots, pans and buckets, for carrying milk I later discover.

I receive a warm welcome from the family on arriving to the Haveli (old house), very quaint. After dinner with fellow guests, I explore the nearby streets and spend half an hour in a cyber café, nice to find after several days disconnected. Cold in the evenings, I've been sleeping in my sleeping bag, which I begin to suspect of hosting bed-bugs.