The middle of the North Island... Lake Taupo!
3 months ago
Thursday, April 22, 2004
Things to do to remain healthy
Meditate
Exercise regularly, walk places, run, stretch, do tai chi
Get outdoors, get to know nature, the world
Read and write
Listen to music, play music
Do something creative (art?)
Socialize
Live new experiences, go new places, meet new people, do new things
Learn new things
Sleep when tired, eat when hungry
Exercise regularly, walk places, run, stretch, do tai chi
Get outdoors, get to know nature, the world
Read and write
Listen to music, play music
Do something creative (art?)
Socialize
Live new experiences, go new places, meet new people, do new things
Learn new things
Sleep when tired, eat when hungry
Santiago de Chile
Santiago, home to some 5 million people, and capital of Chile. I stayed with the family of Rodolfo, a Chilean friend I'd met a few months ago in the Amazon, in a large house in a nice residential area of the city. Hanging out with Rodolfo and friends, I learnt to get by with some of the Chilean slang ("buen carrete huevón, ¿cachai?"), and had a couple of interesting evenings out.
Here in Santiago, I felt that Chile is slightly different from other countries in South America, a rich nation struggling to emerge at the cost of some of the cultural aspects found in neighbouring countries. The city centre at lunch-time was milling with people in suits, their stress felt somehow contagious and reminded me of my old life in Madrid. Luckily I found a small bar to escape the crowds, ate some porotos and drunk some wine, followed by a vermouth. Just the right recipe for stress.
The following day I went up the Teleférico in the metropolitan park, the largest urban park in the Americas. From the sanctuary at the top of Cerro San Cristóbal, some 860m above sea level, the view of the city sprawled out below to the foot of the mountains in the distance. Shutting my eyes, I could feel the noise of the city, a faint but constant hum of tires on concrete, textured with occasional sounds of a motorbike, a dog barking or an ambulance. It had rained last night, clearing the smog and revealing the snow-tipped peaks of the Cordillera in the distance. Although I'd forgotten my camera this day, I felt grateful for having the opportunity to see the city in it's natural context.
Here in Santiago, I felt that Chile is slightly different from other countries in South America, a rich nation struggling to emerge at the cost of some of the cultural aspects found in neighbouring countries. The city centre at lunch-time was milling with people in suits, their stress felt somehow contagious and reminded me of my old life in Madrid. Luckily I found a small bar to escape the crowds, ate some porotos and drunk some wine, followed by a vermouth. Just the right recipe for stress.
The following day I went up the Teleférico in the metropolitan park, the largest urban park in the Americas. From the sanctuary at the top of Cerro San Cristóbal, some 860m above sea level, the view of the city sprawled out below to the foot of the mountains in the distance. Shutting my eyes, I could feel the noise of the city, a faint but constant hum of tires on concrete, textured with occasional sounds of a motorbike, a dog barking or an ambulance. It had rained last night, clearing the smog and revealing the snow-tipped peaks of the Cordillera in the distance. Although I'd forgotten my camera this day, I felt grateful for having the opportunity to see the city in it's natural context.
Wednesday, April 21, 2004
Oceanography Links
Tuesday, April 20, 2004
Emotions
What is the biological function of emotions? Here are a couple of links that attempt to answer this question:
Sociable Machines - Emotions
Biological Approach to Studying Emotions - this seems to be more physiological than biological to me
Sociable Machines - Emotions
Biological Approach to Studying Emotions - this seems to be more physiological than biological to me
Sunday, April 18, 2004
The Lake District, Argentina & Chile
After a few days chilling out in Bariloche and enjoying the locally-produced chocolates, I headed up north to San Martín de los Andes, a quaint ski resort in the Argentinian lake district. Arriving in off-season, at the end of the summer and before the arrival of the snow, San Martín was fairly deserted, so I decided to continue on towards Panguipulli in Chile, taking a beautifully scenic route through the cordillera and across Lago Pirihueico. The bus to the lake took us along a dirt road, birch(?) forests on each side, snow-tipped peaks in the distance. I was one of only three passengers on the bus.
Arriving at the side of lake Pirihueico, I had a couple of hours wait before the ferry arrived. This place was one of the most tranquil places I've encountered on my travels, a good place to stop and meditate, practice a bit of Tai Chi, feel the force of nature, and take some photos. A burnt-out house by the side of the lake provided good subject material. Finally, the ferry arrived, and off-loaded a group of mountain-bikers, trucks coming to load up with timber, another half-empty bus and a couple of private vehicles.
The journey across this long, narrow lake took about 2 hours, I stayed out on deck chatting and sharing some "Mate" (an argentinian herbal drink) with an Argentinian guy living in Chile. The wind was cold, but the sun was shining and the lake was too beautiful to miss.
Arriving at the other side, in Puerto Fuy, unloading the ferry was a complicated affair, the soft mud which the vehicles had to pass over trapped more than one, including our bus. A bit of pushing and shoving was required to get us going again. The journey onwards to Panguipulli took us over some picturesque rivers and rapids, although dusk and night caught up with us shortly after leaving Puerto Fuy.
I'd originally planned to stay the night in Panguipulli, but on arriving I felt restless to continue onwards, so after a bite to eat and a beer, I found a bus to take as far as Temuco, where I stayed the night in a private lodging.
Arriving at the side of lake Pirihueico, I had a couple of hours wait before the ferry arrived. This place was one of the most tranquil places I've encountered on my travels, a good place to stop and meditate, practice a bit of Tai Chi, feel the force of nature, and take some photos. A burnt-out house by the side of the lake provided good subject material. Finally, the ferry arrived, and off-loaded a group of mountain-bikers, trucks coming to load up with timber, another half-empty bus and a couple of private vehicles.
The journey across this long, narrow lake took about 2 hours, I stayed out on deck chatting and sharing some "Mate" (an argentinian herbal drink) with an Argentinian guy living in Chile. The wind was cold, but the sun was shining and the lake was too beautiful to miss.
Arriving at the other side, in Puerto Fuy, unloading the ferry was a complicated affair, the soft mud which the vehicles had to pass over trapped more than one, including our bus. A bit of pushing and shoving was required to get us going again. The journey onwards to Panguipulli took us over some picturesque rivers and rapids, although dusk and night caught up with us shortly after leaving Puerto Fuy.
I'd originally planned to stay the night in Panguipulli, but on arriving I felt restless to continue onwards, so after a bite to eat and a beer, I found a bus to take as far as Temuco, where I stayed the night in a private lodging.
Saturday, April 17, 2004
How does Cinnamon grow?
This page describes it well...
http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katzer/engl/generic_frame.html?Cinn_zey.html
http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katzer/engl/generic_frame.html?Cinn_zey.html
Monaco
Monaco's high level domain is ".mc" http://www.monaco.mc/
Monaco uses the Euro, as does Andorra. It lacks a currency of it's own.
This is a good site www.inn26.com
Monaco uses the Euro, as does Andorra. It lacks a currency of it's own.
This is a good site www.inn26.com
Tuesday, April 13, 2004
El Chaltén, Santa Cruz, Argentina
About 230km north of El Calafate, and deep inside the National Park Los Glaciares, lies El Chaltén, a tiny village (population 350 in off-season), recently named National Centre for Trekking in Argentina.
The main attractions to be seen are Mt. Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and ice-trekking over glaciars and the continental ice field. After several days trekking previous to arriving here, I decided to take it fairly easy for a couple of days, and just did some day-treks up to Laguna Torre, about 3 hours walk from the village.
The main attractions to be seen are Mt. Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and ice-trekking over glaciars and the continental ice field. After several days trekking previous to arriving here, I decided to take it fairly easy for a couple of days, and just did some day-treks up to Laguna Torre, about 3 hours walk from the village.
Sunday, April 11, 2004
El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina
El Calafate, capital of the Santa Cruz province and one of the hubs of entry to the National Park Los Glaciares, is a picturesque, although quite touristy little town. Nearby is the famous glacier Pinto Moreno, one of the last glaciers in the world to still be advancing. I made a day trip to the glacier, a quite spectacular expanse of ice about the size of Buenos Aires city. The front of the glacier, rising 50-70m vertically out of the lake, is pushed forward at a rate of about 2m per day, causing huge chunks of ice to break off and fall into the water below. The noise was as spectacular as the view of the glacier itself.
The Patagonian Steppe, Argentina & Chile
The bus journeys from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas in Chile, from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales, and from Puerto Natales to El Calafate took me over vast expanses of Patagonian Steppe, bleak grasslands, almost unpopulated, mainly flat but interspersed with a few undulating hills, a few lakes and with spectacular views over the Andes in the distance. These terrains seem to be principally inhabited by thousands of sheep, although I also caught a glimpse of some large flightless Ostrich-like birds, which I later discovered to be Ñandú (aka Darwin Rhea), a few Llama and some flamingos in a lake. I found an interesting site about Patagonian wildlife here.
Bajo Fondo Tango Club
Tango/techno/chill a la Gotan Project... very nice. Also worth a listen is Flamenco Chill II.
Saturday, April 10, 2004
Things I like
Photography, Digital Art
Diving, Outdoors/Trekking
Nature, Biology, Conservation, Environmental Science, Oceanography
Linguistics, Cognitive Sciences, Philosophy
Tai Chi, Capoeira
Music
Travel
Writing
Interesting people
Diving, Outdoors/Trekking
Nature, Biology, Conservation, Environmental Science, Oceanography
Linguistics, Cognitive Sciences, Philosophy
Tai Chi, Capoeira
Music
Travel
Writing
Interesting people
Friday, April 09, 2004
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile
I trekked for 4 days in this beautiful National Park, where "Las Torres" protrude almost 1500m vertically up from their base to around 3000m above sea-level. The mountains are surrounded by beautiful woodlands, rivers, lakes and several glaciers. I would be doing the classic "W" trek, from West to East.
Day 1
An early start to catch the 0730 bus from Puerto Natales to the National Park, a 3 hour journey. Near the park entrance I spotted several Patagonian Llamas (known here as Guanaco), and caught a glimpse of a Condor overhead. After being dropped off on the Eastern shore of Lake Pehoé, a Catamarán took us over the cold, windy lake to Refugio Pehoé, where I would be staying tonight and the starting point of my trek. An ambitious start today, leaving my bags at the Refugio I headed up to Grey's Glacier, quite a tough trek with the wind against me and mainly uphill, although I only took 2 1/2 hours, less than planned. The effort was rewarded with beautiful views of the clear blue ice-breaks washed up on the shore below me, and the magnificent glacier ahead of me, rising over 50m above the water of the lake, Lago Grey.
The way back was easier, the wind behind me, although it was raining I still made it back in one piece and before dusk. Back at the campsite, cooked myself some canned beans. Some Americans offered me some of their vegitarian rice, and eyed up my beans eagerly until I mentioned they had meat in them. We got on to a conversation about vegitarian food, apparently in the USA there are high-tech veggie products and even veggie-bacon that looks like real bacon. I suggested that they could genetically modify cows to grow soya instead of meat. Luke suggested to genetically modify trees to grow meat. Being a vegetarian in the future could be interesting...
Day 2
Another early start, left the refugio at 0740 in a huff as they had refused to let me heat some milk for my coffee. Made good going against the wind arriving at Campamento Italiano (The Italian Camp) by 0930. I took out some provisions for lunch, then hung my bag on a tree - apparently there are rats in the Italian Camp. The trek up the Valle de Los Franceses was quite steep and rocky until arriving at a large river flowing back down the valley behind me, the falling water making a very loud noise. Then through woodland between two rivers until reaching a clearing where I could see the mountains to my East, shrowded in clouds, and the lakes past the valley behind me. A bit further on, it started hailing, a cold wind was blowing, I appreciated the shelter the last bit of woodland offered me before heading on to Campamento Britanico (the British Camp), where I stopped for lunch, Cheese & Tuna rolls.
My 10 minute stop for lunch was long enough for me to become nearly hypothermic, and as the visibility was fairly poor, I decided to head back down instead of risking another hour up to the top. Looking back from the clearing on the way down, the weather had cleared up and become sunny, c'est la vie. In any case, my knees were aching by now and I was eager to get to Refugio Los Cuernos to rest. After what must have been one of the most strenuous days of my journey, I arrived, tired and aching, by 1500, had a shower and heated up some milk for my coffee. By now I felt human enough to play a couple of games of chess with a guide at the hostel, the first game was a draw, I lost the second game after stupidly losing my Queen, although I put up a valiant fight.
Cooked myself some dinner, and enjoyed a bit of wine, chatting with other trekkers arriving at the Refugio.
Day 3
Left around nine (O'Clock) towards my next stop, Refugio El Chileno, according to the maps a 6 hour trek, but today my pack was a lot lighter after having eaten most of my provisions. After 90 minutes I was about half-way there and was confronted with a grassy slope of cows, looking at me intimidatingly. When I approached, however, I realized that they were scared of me. By midday I'd arrived at the Refugio, leaving me the afternoon free. Over lunch I met a couple of kiwis staying at the refuge, and decided to join them in the afternoon for the climb up to Las Torres. Quite a steep climb, but by now I was feeling fit and it wasn't too tough for me. At the top our efforts were rewarded with a beautiful view of Las Torres, a natural arena surrounded a lake of melt-water below, the afternoon sun lit up the 1500m towers with a majestic light.
After enjoying the last rays of sun, we made our way back down, passing "the german team" heading the other way, they'd have to trek down in the dark later. Back at the refuge, we enjoyed some fried salmon, a bit of wine, and I found out the results of the Champions Leage matches, Madrid and Milan eliminated - what a result! Set my alarm for 0445, intending to catch the sunrise at Las Torres.
Day 4
At 0445, checked out of the windows, and no stars were visible so I assumed it would be a cloudy day, and decided against the trek up to Las Torres again. Instead, rested until 0915 then got up for breakfast, had a chat to the german team, packed and headed back down to the park entrance, a mere 3 hour trek. On the way down, met a couple of Irish people who I'd met previously in Lençois (Brazil) and in Buenos Aires... it really is a small world! I was hoping to get some photos of Llamas on the way back, but didn't see any until right near the park entrance, and had to feed some positive energy to my camera battery until it allowed me to take a couple of photos.
Day 1
An early start to catch the 0730 bus from Puerto Natales to the National Park, a 3 hour journey. Near the park entrance I spotted several Patagonian Llamas (known here as Guanaco), and caught a glimpse of a Condor overhead. After being dropped off on the Eastern shore of Lake Pehoé, a Catamarán took us over the cold, windy lake to Refugio Pehoé, where I would be staying tonight and the starting point of my trek. An ambitious start today, leaving my bags at the Refugio I headed up to Grey's Glacier, quite a tough trek with the wind against me and mainly uphill, although I only took 2 1/2 hours, less than planned. The effort was rewarded with beautiful views of the clear blue ice-breaks washed up on the shore below me, and the magnificent glacier ahead of me, rising over 50m above the water of the lake, Lago Grey.
The way back was easier, the wind behind me, although it was raining I still made it back in one piece and before dusk. Back at the campsite, cooked myself some canned beans. Some Americans offered me some of their vegitarian rice, and eyed up my beans eagerly until I mentioned they had meat in them. We got on to a conversation about vegitarian food, apparently in the USA there are high-tech veggie products and even veggie-bacon that looks like real bacon. I suggested that they could genetically modify cows to grow soya instead of meat. Luke suggested to genetically modify trees to grow meat. Being a vegetarian in the future could be interesting...
Day 2
Another early start, left the refugio at 0740 in a huff as they had refused to let me heat some milk for my coffee. Made good going against the wind arriving at Campamento Italiano (The Italian Camp) by 0930. I took out some provisions for lunch, then hung my bag on a tree - apparently there are rats in the Italian Camp. The trek up the Valle de Los Franceses was quite steep and rocky until arriving at a large river flowing back down the valley behind me, the falling water making a very loud noise. Then through woodland between two rivers until reaching a clearing where I could see the mountains to my East, shrowded in clouds, and the lakes past the valley behind me. A bit further on, it started hailing, a cold wind was blowing, I appreciated the shelter the last bit of woodland offered me before heading on to Campamento Britanico (the British Camp), where I stopped for lunch, Cheese & Tuna rolls.
My 10 minute stop for lunch was long enough for me to become nearly hypothermic, and as the visibility was fairly poor, I decided to head back down instead of risking another hour up to the top. Looking back from the clearing on the way down, the weather had cleared up and become sunny, c'est la vie. In any case, my knees were aching by now and I was eager to get to Refugio Los Cuernos to rest. After what must have been one of the most strenuous days of my journey, I arrived, tired and aching, by 1500, had a shower and heated up some milk for my coffee. By now I felt human enough to play a couple of games of chess with a guide at the hostel, the first game was a draw, I lost the second game after stupidly losing my Queen, although I put up a valiant fight.
Cooked myself some dinner, and enjoyed a bit of wine, chatting with other trekkers arriving at the Refugio.
Day 3
Left around nine (O'Clock) towards my next stop, Refugio El Chileno, according to the maps a 6 hour trek, but today my pack was a lot lighter after having eaten most of my provisions. After 90 minutes I was about half-way there and was confronted with a grassy slope of cows, looking at me intimidatingly. When I approached, however, I realized that they were scared of me. By midday I'd arrived at the Refugio, leaving me the afternoon free. Over lunch I met a couple of kiwis staying at the refuge, and decided to join them in the afternoon for the climb up to Las Torres. Quite a steep climb, but by now I was feeling fit and it wasn't too tough for me. At the top our efforts were rewarded with a beautiful view of Las Torres, a natural arena surrounded a lake of melt-water below, the afternoon sun lit up the 1500m towers with a majestic light.
After enjoying the last rays of sun, we made our way back down, passing "the german team" heading the other way, they'd have to trek down in the dark later. Back at the refuge, we enjoyed some fried salmon, a bit of wine, and I found out the results of the Champions Leage matches, Madrid and Milan eliminated - what a result! Set my alarm for 0445, intending to catch the sunrise at Las Torres.
Day 4
At 0445, checked out of the windows, and no stars were visible so I assumed it would be a cloudy day, and decided against the trek up to Las Torres again. Instead, rested until 0915 then got up for breakfast, had a chat to the german team, packed and headed back down to the park entrance, a mere 3 hour trek. On the way down, met a couple of Irish people who I'd met previously in Lençois (Brazil) and in Buenos Aires... it really is a small world! I was hoping to get some photos of Llamas on the way back, but didn't see any until right near the park entrance, and had to feed some positive energy to my camera battery until it allowed me to take a couple of photos.
Sunday, April 04, 2004
Funny new words
Patente (Arg) = Matricula (Esp)
Schlampe (Ger) = Slapper (Eng)
hogenzorf (Ger) = Bastard (Eng)
Je suis grille (Fra) = If someone overhears you when you say something about them
Stife (Canada) = Extendible batton used by customs officers to hit people... they hit large muscles for maximum effect. Energy is stored up in the stife and released on impact. Don't hit people on the face as this can cause permanent damage.
Zing (Canada) = Fast witty response/remark
Flies have short legs... this is a saying which should read "lies have short legs"
Shaleta = Patagonian shrub related to the carrot
Encandilar (Arg) = to blind (with headlights for example, encandilan)
Empañado (Arg) = fogged/misted (as in interior of a car windscreen)
Carrete (Chi) = bash/party
Carretear (Chi) = Have a good time, hang out, to party, etc.
Poto (Chi) = Arse... Che que potito = nice arse!
Matacolas (Chi) = Tuquera (Arg) - a device for smoking the tail of a rolly.
Schlampe (Ger) = Slapper (Eng)
hogenzorf (Ger) = Bastard (Eng)
Je suis grille (Fra) = If someone overhears you when you say something about them
Stife (Canada) = Extendible batton used by customs officers to hit people... they hit large muscles for maximum effect. Energy is stored up in the stife and released on impact. Don't hit people on the face as this can cause permanent damage.
Zing (Canada) = Fast witty response/remark
Flies have short legs... this is a saying which should read "lies have short legs"
Shaleta = Patagonian shrub related to the carrot
Encandilar (Arg) = to blind (with headlights for example, encandilan)
Empañado (Arg) = fogged/misted (as in interior of a car windscreen)
Carrete (Chi) = bash/party
Carretear (Chi) = Have a good time, hang out, to party, etc.
Poto (Chi) = Arse... Che que potito = nice arse!
Matacolas (Chi) = Tuquera (Arg) - a device for smoking the tail of a rolly.
Friday, April 02, 2004
The Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
Today I took a boat trip out on the Beagle Channel south of Ushuaia, seeing many sealions, cormorants and even caught a lucky glimpse a few penguins in the water. After the trip, went out for dinner with the international contingent from the trip, some Canadians, an American and a German. The American girl, Heather, had an interesting Suunto watch for hiking, with heartbeat measurement, barometer, and even an electronic compass. When I questioned how the compass setting worked she thought out loud "I don't know what the Magnetic Deviation is here", the first time I've heard anyone concerned about the local magnetic deviation. She is a pilot in her spare time, so I guess that has something to do with it.
Konrad, the German, came up with a good translation of a Spanish Phrase, "The World is a Tissue". See if you can figure out what it means!
Konrad, the German, came up with a good translation of a Spanish Phrase, "The World is a Tissue". See if you can figure out what it means!
Thursday, April 01, 2004
Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
Ushuaia, the most austral city in the world, 55º south of the equator, and just a stones throw away from Antarctica. I arrived last night prepared for the worst in my spanking new thermal/waterproof/windproof jacket, so I was a bit disappointed to discover that it was actually 15ºC and had been excellent weather for this time of year. Checked into a hostel in the centre of town for 15 pesos a night (less than 5 euros - Argentina is working out to be quite cheap).
This morning, after looking around the town and getting the "End of the World Museum" stamp in my passport, I decided to trek up to a glaciar nearby, Le Martial. At first the trek was fairly easy going, up through woodlands, over rocky shale and alongside a stream of meltwater. The wind was cold, but the sun was shining and I was pretty hot after walking for a while. After a couple of hours climbing, near the foot of the glacier, there were beautiful views down the valley and over the city of Ushuaia, it's port and the Beagle channel. Met several fellow trekkers on the trail from Argentina, Mexico, France, UK and Holland.
Tomorrow I hope to go to the National Park "Tierra del Fuego", then hopefully I'll manage to do a small boat trip on Saturday before heading north to Punta Arenas in Chile. As another austral explore once said, I'm just going out for a walk, I may be some time...
This morning, after looking around the town and getting the "End of the World Museum" stamp in my passport, I decided to trek up to a glaciar nearby, Le Martial. At first the trek was fairly easy going, up through woodlands, over rocky shale and alongside a stream of meltwater. The wind was cold, but the sun was shining and I was pretty hot after walking for a while. After a couple of hours climbing, near the foot of the glacier, there were beautiful views down the valley and over the city of Ushuaia, it's port and the Beagle channel. Met several fellow trekkers on the trail from Argentina, Mexico, France, UK and Holland.
Tomorrow I hope to go to the National Park "Tierra del Fuego", then hopefully I'll manage to do a small boat trip on Saturday before heading north to Punta Arenas in Chile. As another austral explore once said, I'm just going out for a walk, I may be some time...
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